© Patricia Barth 2017
Even prior to the 70s, imported birds were being kept as pets here and abroad. Although breeding efforts produced domestic stock in the 70s, aviculture did not become popular until the late 70s and mid 80s. Quarantine stations were still bringing in baby birds in great numbers until the passage of the WBCA in 1992 that banned all imports. At that time, breeding birds was well underway. So, even if you might have a bird that was bred in the 90s, you could have a bird that is 25 years of age or older. There are still many hearty birds out there that are in their 80s and above. Enjoy a sampling of them here: Senior Psittacines.
It may become obvious to you that your older bird needs a special diet and other special accommodations to maintain its health and comfort. We'll explore some of the ways you can help.
- GOUT: This is a painful disease brought on by too much protein in the diet and the failure of the kidneys to eliminate the uric acids produced by it. Symptoms of gout include excessive thirst with less white in the feces and more watery stools; poor feather condition and feather plucking; reddened swollen feet; difficulty walking; general malaise of the bird.Treatment of gout should only be determined by an avian specialist after viewing blood test results. There is more to it than just giving the bird black cherry juice. An excellent article on gout by Dr. Hines is worth reading. Reducing the protein level in your bird's diet is essential. Replace peanuts and seed with walnuts that are whole, halved, or diced depending upon the size of the bird. Offer some (not too much) juicy fruits, and veggies with high water content. Place water bowls close to where the bird perches so that it drinks more. Cover and pad and perches with vet wrap.
- PERCHES: Parrots may become more lethargic in their senior years and tend to rest on their water or food bowls. Fat parrots may place too much pressure on their feet causing tender red spots on the bottom of them. In this case, you might want to wrap the perches – especially the concrete ones – with vet wrap for extra padding. Corner perches and flat wooden perches are another relief measure in addition to their existing wooden perches.
- FATTY LIVER DISEASE: can present itself with dark oily feathers, overgrown beaks, and general malaise. If you suspect that your bird has FLD, you should definitely have bloodwork done by an avian specialist. If noticed early on, you can reverse FLD with diet and milk thistle (amount and strength provided by your vet).
- DIET: One of the most important considerations in enjoying a bird beyond 50 or so is diet. As birds become less active, it's essential to minimize the caloric and protein intake. This means giving a diet rich in produce and sprouts with very little seed and nuts. Even pellets should be kept at a minimum since they are either soy or corn based. It's better to supplement with a good avian vitamin/mineral/amino acid powder on their food. Fruit should also be kept at a minimum since the fructose is high in calories.
- EXERCISE: A flighted aviary bird is less prone to the ailments of old age, but in most cases of pet birds, that's not possible. To encourage exercise, add one or more perch stands for the bird to climb around on.
- ATTENTION: Interaction and plenty of attention will keep birds from becoming bored and tends to animate them more.
- EYES: Eye changes can be noticed in older birds. The most common is cataracts which would appear as as a cloudy film over the eye. Cataracts can be surgically removed by an ophthalmologist along with the presence of an avian veterinary specialist. In fat birds, you might see dots of white fatty deposits in the eyes. Your vet should first determine whether the spots are fungal. If your bird does have diminished eyesight, try not to move things like food, water bowls and toys around in their cage. Elderly birds that have cagemates are usually more comfortable with another bird as a guide for them. Read our article on Eye Health for more information on keeping your bird's eyes in tiptop condition. If possible, supply your bird with natural sunlight for a few hours each day. Otherwise, keep the cage near a sunny window – but not one where summer sun would be beating down upon the cage.
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